
The thing about Australia is, it’s huge. You could fit the UK into it 32 times and yet it’s population is only 22 million (the UK is 62 million). The result of this is there are massive, huge, enormous, gigantic areas of… nothing.
Now, we couldn’t really come all this way and not visit Ayers Rock could we? But there presents a problem. Ayers Rock is right slap bang in the centre of this nothingness.
So just how do we get to Ayers Rock on our road trip? We had no option but to drive through this big country.
We had read many times, and met many people who told us just how long and bleak drive it is, but we thought it was all a bit of an exageration until we saw it with our own eyes.
We drove about 5 days to get to Ayers. This journey was split up between the occasional large town where we’d sleep at night. During the day we’d stop for fuel whenever we could. These fuel stops were in little villages which were about 250km apart. And by little I mean tiny. Villages of about 50 where the majority of the residents are Aboriginal with 2 white people, quite often English, running the shop, pub and petrol station. They’re all in the same building.
At first it’s quite exciting. Then it becomes quite relaxing. Just us and the open highway cruising at 130km/h. Then it becomes unnerving. What would happen if we broke down, or run out of fuel? (which nearly happened once). There’s no mobile phone signal in the gaps between villages and, having watched many horror movies, the idea of flagging down a truck isn’t one I’d want to have to do.
There’s one other aspect of this area that’s quite daunting and it’s a bit of a sensitive subject. The Aboriginals. There’s a huge alcohol problem in these areas. In some places they are banned from buying it. When you stop to fuel up sometimes you are faced with 50 Aboriginals staring at you. That’s quite nerving for two pasty small white Scottish kids who didn’t half stand out in their big green camper van.
I like to think that they just get a bad reputation from outsiders and there was really nothing to worry about, but it’s difficult to think that given everything we’d been told, mostly by scaremongering Australians.
We spent most of the time in the Outback saying “come on, pedal to the metal and lets get out of here”.
The price of fuel in the Outback is something we hadn’t really prepared for. It hammered our daily budget. I remember one day we spent more than double our days budget on petrol. The speed limit is 130km/h which isn’t too good for fuel consumption. But there’s a fine line. We could drive slower and save fuel, but take considerably longer to get there. Did I mention there’s nothing to see along the way?
But you know something, once we finally got to Uluru (the native name for Ayers Rock) it all paled into insignificance and we realised that it had all been worth it.
Uluru is just a big barren rock in the middle of no where. It has become a bit of tourist trap where prices for food, petrol and accommodation are all inflated. But it’s beautiful. And that makes everything alright.
We watched sunset one night and sunrise the next morning. We took a walk around a bit of it too. The Aboriginal’s believe it has massive spiritual significance. If you should take a bit of the rock home to keep you will bring with you eternal bad luck. Whether or not you believe it, you can sense the rocks eeriness.
So after 5 days of driving Ayers was over in a day and we hit the road again. A couple of more days got us out the outback and back into civilisation. There was a massive sense of relief when we made it to Port Augusta and we saw water again.
The Outback isn’t somewhere I’d rush back to. Once you’ve seen Ayers Rock there’s probably never a need to see it again. But I’m glad we visited and don’t regret any moment of it. It’s a must see for everyone at some point in their lifetime. I’m just glad we got out alive.
